first time in naples?

uèuè, this is a guide to eat, drink and enjoy like a Borbone.

I’ve been looking forward to this!

Naples is definitely one of my favorite cities, with one of the best cuisines in the country. So, pardon me if I focus mainly on food and drinks, that’s legit the main activity I do when I’m there, as everyone should.

Beyond being a perfect eno-gastronomic destination, Naples is also a dream for art and history lovers, thanks to its deep and rich history to extricate. From the Greeks to the Bourbons, it's a city full of hidden gems waiting to be discovered beneath its apparent “crumbling” surface.

And if after this guide you still don’t get the essence of Naples’ folklore, well, I’m sorry, but maybe it’s not for you, and you probably don’t deserve its charm.

That said, I truly hope you enjoy the ridiculous amount of street food, orange wine, and pastries on offer.

Pasticcerie for breakfast, snacks & aperitivo:

Pastries are a big thing in Naples, this pasticceria is the place to be. Like in Milan, the pasticceria concept is perfect for breakfast but works for lunch and afternoon pick-me-ups as well. Also, I cannot name a pastry that I didn’t fall in love with. You should definitely try: sfogliatella, babà, pastiera, torta caprese, graffa, delizia al limone and cornetto all’ischitana (for breakfast).
Usually, pasticcerie have a savory section too, where you’ll find one of my favourite Neapolitan things: parigina!

• Miranapoli (Posillipo): this historic bar facing the Gulf of Naples has been offering a top-notch service to its clientele since 1958. It's the perfect spot for a dreamy aperitivo on the scenic rooftop or a glorious breakfast with a view of Mount Vesuvius.

• Pasticceria Capparelli (Pendino): read carefully, this is a mandatory stop. Particularly if you’re willing to try one of the best babà ever.

• Chalet Ciro (Mergellina): its history began in Mergellina in the 1950s and has continued ever since. They've been delighting their clients with passion, hospitality, and out-of-this-world pastries. Ciro gained popularity for their graffe—a sugary donut—and continues to offer a wide and delicious range of traditional Neapolitan desserts. Another reason to visit is their rich aperitivo, enjoyed with a view of the Gulf at sunset.

• Pintauro (S. Ferdinando): since 1785, Pintauro has been serving traditional Neapolitan pastries, especially its sfogliatella, a flaky, ricotta-filled pastry.

• Carraturo (S. Lorenzo): pastry shop celebrated for its specialty: the Pastiera Napoletana, a traditional Neapolitan Easter pie made with a sweet, ricotta-filled pastry crust and flavored with candied fruit and orange blossom.

• Luminist (S. Ferdinando): bar, pasticceria an bistro, serving many sorts of food all day long. It’s perfect for brunch but also for a lunch or dinner. Scroll down for more info.

  

  

Coffee shop:

It’s no news that I’m obsessed, if not addicted, to coffee. Or that breakfast is my favorite meal. Thus, I obviously had to create a dedicated section for coffee shops.

• Diaz Microtorrefazione (San Giuseppe): specialty coffee and one of the best traditional coffees in Naples.

• Il vero bar del Professore (S. Ferdinando): a celebrated spot renowned for its traditional Neapolitan coffee. Established in 1958, it has a reputation for serving coffee with an artisanal touch and deep respect for tradition. If you’re a coffee enthusiast or simply want to experience Naples like a local, a visit here is a true treat.

• Cuccuma Caffè (S. Giuseppe): Neapolitan coffee has been recognized as part of UNESCO heritage, so it’s a must-try. Particularly, you should sample the most traditional style: coffee made with the cuccuma, the ancestor of today’s moka pot.

• Gran Caffè Cimmino (Porto): a historic and charming café known for its classic Neapolitan ambiance, which features vintage decor and a timeless atmosphere. It has been serving patrons since 1860, making it a quintessential spot for experiencing traditional Neapolitan coffee culture.

• Gran Caffè La Caffettiera (S. Ferdinando): a staple for 40 years, this historic café is the place to enjoy an excellent cold brew or an espresso at the counter.

• Gran Caffè Gambrinus (S. Ferdinando): an iconic café that epitomizes the city’s rich coffee culture. Established in 1860, it’s renowned for its elegant, opulent decor and its role as a cultural and social hub in Naples.

• It’s (S. Giuseppe / S. Lorenzo): specialty coffee, homemade pastries and natural wines. All that matters.

  

Restaurants & bistros:

Now let’s get serious. We are going to talk about proper meals. I’m sharing a curated selection of places I would pick for lunch and/or dinner. I know the options might seem overwhelming, but Naples is famous for the good food and who am I to cut the best part out?

• Pizza:
  Before diving into the good stuff, let me take five educational minutes. In Naples, there are several types of pizza, with the most popular being:

  • Canotto (dinghy-style): The classic Neapolitan pizza we're all familiar with, characterized by a chunky yet airy crust.

  • Portafoglio (wallet-style): The traditional pizza folded into four, often the go-to for takeaway.

  • Pizza fritta: Fried pizza dough, either served simply or montanara-style, with cheese and tomato sauce on top.

  • 'A rot e' carrett' (wheel-shaped): A huge, thin pizza stretched so much that it doesn't fit on the plate.

  The latter is my personal favorite, and the best place to enjoy it is, of course, Da Michele!
  Antica Pizzeria da Michele (Pendino): established in 1870, Da Michele has hosted famous faces like Julia Roberts and Maradona. But you probably know it already, given its rapid rise in popularity. Don't expect to order whatever you want, though, they serve only three pizzas, a few soft drinks, and Nastro Azzurro beer.
  50 Kalò (Mergellina): among the 50 top pizzas worldwide, their pizza is famous for the soft “crust” and flavorful tomato sauce.
  Concettina a 3 Santi (Rione Sanità): kinda expensive but still worth trying their Sott’ e Ngopp’, a montanara laid on a bed of tomato sauce, olive oil, fresh basil and Parmigiano.
  Pizzeria Santa Maradona (Quartieri Spagnoli): new generation pizza makers in the middle of Quartieri Spagnoli.
  'A Puteca d' 'a Pizza (S. Lorenzo): one of the best pizza fritta and pizza a portafogli out there.
  La Masardona (Mercato): slaying pizza fritta since 1945.
  Da Fernanda - Pizza Fritta (Quartieri Spagnoli): Fernanda is a charming elderly woman who specializes in fresh pizze fritte. She only makes those, in two sizes: big or small.
  Isabella de Cham (Rione Sanità): popular choice for both locals and visitors looking for an authentic pizza experience, especially the fried one.
  Pizzeria Errico Porzio Lungomare (S. Ferdinando): some locals will tell you it’s the best pizza. I say it’s up to you, but you should definitely give it a try.
  Pizzeria Pellone (S. Lorenzo): local historic venue with a vintage atmosphere that serves pizzas baked in a wood-fired oven.

• Wine focused spots:
  JUS (Chiaia): natural winery serving nice tapas to be shared and enjoyed together.
  L’Ebbrezza di Teonilla (Chiaia): wine bar with a cozy atmosphere and an impressive selection of natural wines.
  Raraterra (Frattamaggiore): elegant bistro with a cute dehors, offering simple yet perfectly executed traditional food. Interesting wine list.
  Persika (Chiaia): cozy and vibey little spot with a menu that changes every day, based on fresh ingredients found at the market.
  CU.QU. / cucina di quartiere (Q.ri Spagnoli): neighborhood restaurant tucked in a small alley that offers simple, authentic traditional dishes and local wines.
  Zazzu (Montecalvario): no frill bistro, good for a quick bite and a good glass of natural wine.
  Januarius (S. Lorenzo): restaurant and deli serving traditional dishes and street food with a local natural wine-oriented list.
  Dialetti (Chiaia): resto / terroir / deli with seasonal and zero-kilometer food.

• Restaurants:
  CICCIOTTO dal 1942 (Marechiaro): historical trattoria from the 1940s, where you can enjoy raw or grilled fish with a stunning sea view.
  Diego (Chiaia): seasonal and sustainable Mediterranean seafood-based cuisine.
  Osteria Dante (Ercolano): a bit far, but well worth the trip. There, you'll find only local wines and a cuisine crafted from foraged ingredients of the region.
  ARIA (Porto): Fine dining restaurant with a Michelin star.
  Taverna dell’Arte (S. Giuseppe): Napoli’s traditions at their finest. You must try the polpette di Santa Chiara (meatballs wrapped in pork netting) made from an old family recipe.
  Luminist (S. Ferdinando): on the ground floor of the Banco di Napoli, the house of Gallerie d'Italia, you’ll find the Luminist offering a range of dishes and seafood specialties for a quick stop, lunch and dinner.
  Capitolo Tre (S. Ferdinando): fancy restaurant and cocktail bar, perfect for a celebration.

• Traditional Neapolitan:
  Umberto (Chiaia): serving good food, passion and great hospitality since 1916, this place is now run by the fourth generation. It still has a beautiful 1930s dining room, where the flavors of Umberto have won over people like Japan’s Emperor Akihito, John F. Kennedy, and Anthony Quinn.
  Trattoria Da Ettore (S. Ferdinando): adorable trattoria with a traditional charme. The menu changes depending on the day of the week. Dishes like pasta with beans, gnocchi, scaloppine, fried mixed fish, and stews rotate just like in any typical Neapolitan household.
  La Locanda del Gesù Vecchio (S. Giuseppe): try the genovese, a pasta dish with slow cooked meat and caramelized onions. It has plenty of gluten-free options too.
  Brigida (S. Ferdinando): down-to-earth spot offering traditional Neapolitan home cooking made with fresh, local ingredients.
  Osteria della Mattonella (S. Ferdinando): homemade dishes in a historic tavern with colorful tiles. If you’ve never tried genovese, this could be another perfect opportunity.
  Ristorante Amici Miei (S. Ferdinando): family-run restaurant founded in 1977, featuring classic decor and homemade bread, traditional pasta recipes and desserts.
  Locanda del Cerriglio (Porto): a famous tavern where Caravaggio was attacked and disfigured after a dinner on October 24, 1609. It closed after the 1885 renovation of Naples and reopened in 2014 after ten years of restoration, preserving the old dining room, the vaulted underground cellar, and upstairs rooms dedicated to cultural events, along with traditional recipes.
  Antica Osteria Da Tonino dal 1880 (Chiaia) was founded in 1880 by Antonio Canfora, and for over a century, it has sincerely and qualitatively narrated the history of Neapolitan family-style dining.

• Streetfood / Quick grabs:
  Salumeria Upnea (S. Giuseppe): delicatessen offering a selection of high-quality cured meats, cheeses, and specialties. It stands out for its focus on artisanal products and commitment to traditional craftsmanship.
  Elettroforno Giulia (Posillipo): popular local spot for its baked goods, particularly pizza and quick bites at affordable prices.
  Friggitoria Vomero (Vomero) has been frying and serving the slayiest zeppole, fried pizza, cuoppos for more the 70 years! I know you’re going to need a nap after, but believe me it’s 100% worth it.

  Rosticceria Vestuto (S. Carlo Arena): I know this rosticceria is a bit of a trek, but their parigine are to die for. Not familiar with parigina? It’s essentially heaven in a bite and my favorite Neapolitan treat. This style of pizza is filled with prosciutto cotto and provolone cheese, then covered with a flaky, golden, and buttery puff pastry. Yum.
  Tandem d'Asporto (S. Giuseppe): Neapolitan ragù (meat and tomato sauce) deserves an award. It’s important to note that it shouldn’t be confused with Bolognese, as they are completely different. Tandem serves this ragù in the traditional style known as o’ cuzzetiello. This dish originates from the Neapolitan ritual of tasting the sauce by dipping bread while it’s cooking.
  Salumeria Regina (S. Ferdinando): sandwiches and casatiello are the highlights of this salumeria, literally a “salami place”. Casatiello is a traditional Neapolitan Easter bread—a rich, brioche-like dough made with eggs, animal fat, and loaded with cheese and cured meats.
  La Focaccia Della Signora (Chiaia): iconic bakery, renowned for its local-fav exceptional focaccia. Established in 1962, it has built a reputation for delivering high-quality, authentic baked goods.
  Rosticceria Imperatore (Vico Equense): beloved 1906 establishment, known among locals for their savory pastries.
  Antica Salumeria Musiello (S. Ferdinando): historic delicatessen, established in 1931, offering cured meats, cheeses, and other artisanal products.
  BOP (Arenella): fusion (Asian + Neapolitan) dumplings changing flavours everyday.
  Mennella Il Gelato (S. Giuseppe): this artisanal gelato is popular among both locals and tourists for a reason.

  

  

Wine bars (how I like them):

What do I mean by “How I like them”? Well, iykyk… especially, if you’ve been following me for a while. I’m talking about stellar (natural) wine lists and nice tapas / snacks.

• Vineria Bandita (Vomero): a pit-stop for their fresh tapas and dope wine list.

• Puteca (S. Ferdinando): natural wine spot with a scenographic dehors in the folkloric area of Quartieri Spagnoli.

• Polyphemos (Pozzuoli): natural wines & great artisanal cheeses.

• Cautero Champagne (Avvocata): great spot for champagne and refined snack lovers.

• Indovino (Quartieri Spagnoli): easy spot with natural wines, beers and typical aperitivo.

• OAK (S. Giuseppe): social bar offering craft beers, local produce and a focus on natural wines.

Beer & cocktails:

Same as the above but focused on good cocktails and beers.

• L’Antiquario (S. Ferdinando): disguised as a fake antique shop, this speakeasy bar is part of the 50 Best Bars.

• Mar Limone (Pozzuoli): a bar with a kitchen serving a fish-and-lemon-based menu, complemented by a beautiful seafront view.

• Blind Pig (Chiaia): stylish cocktail bar celebrated for its inventive drinks and sophisticated ambiance.

• Ba-Bar La Nova Central (S. Giuseppe): located in Santa Maria La Nova’s square, right across from the cloister, where allegedly you can find Dracula's remains. It offers a lovely outdoor space where to enjoy a good cocktail.

• Vernissage (Quartieri Spagnoli): sustainable bar in the heart of Naples that combines art and culture with an idea of ‘green’, by offering food and drinks made from zero-kilometer products.

• Craft Bellini (S. Lorenzo): tapas bar with good cocktails, craft beer and nice wines.

  

Museums & galleries:

Here below there’s a list including some of my preferred museums.

• zazà (Posillipo): indie gallery that hosts small exhibitions by international artists with two locations: one in Milan and one seafront in Posillipo.

• Galleria Borbonica (Chiaia): underground tunnel that offers a unique glimpse into the city’s history. Built in the 19th century as a military passage by order of Re Ferdinando II, it later served as a bomb shelter during World War II.

• PAN - Palazzo delle Arti Napoli (Chiaia): located in the 18th-century Palazzo Roccella, this contemporary arts museum is a hub that hosts exhibitions, seminars, film festivals, and other events.

• Museo Capodimonte: one of Italy's most important art museums. Housed in a former royal palace, the museum houses masterpieces by Tiziano, Caravaggio, and Raffaello. In addition to its vast painting collection, it features decorative arts and contemporary exhibitions.

• Gallerie di’Italia (S. Ferdinando): housed in the historic Palazzo Zevallos Stigliano, this gallery is known for its impressive collection of Italian art, ranging from the 17th century to contemporary works. One of its highlights is Caravaggio’s Martirio di Sant’Orsola, a must-see masterpiece.

Churches:

Naples is said to have the highest concentration of churches in Italy—visiting without exploring its religious art would be a missed opportunity. Below you can find my favourites.

• Chiostro di Santa Chiara (S. Giuseppe): Santa Chiara is part of a larger complex including a monastery, a church, and an archaeological museum. The cloister is its most famous feature, renowned for its Rococo majolica decorations. Santa Chiara was originally built in 1310 in Gothic style by Re Roberto d’Angiò for his second wife, Sancha d’Aragona, and included two convents. In the 18th century, the church was remodeled in Baroque style, although much of it was destroyed during WWII. The cloister survived intact, and when the rest of the complex was rebuilt 10 years later, the church was restored to its original Gothic design. The Monumental Complex also includes an archaeological area with Roman remains that were uncovered after the war.

• Chiesa di Sant'Anna dei Lombardi (Montecalvario): a church and convent featuring some of the best Renaissance religious art south of Florence. A must visit is the Vasari Sacristy, and make sure to see Guido Mazzoni's Pietà.

• Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore (S. Lorenzo) reflects the layering of three different eras: Greek, Roman, and medieval. Built in 1270 on the remains of a 6th-century Christian church, it was commissioned by Re Carlo I d’Angiò and built in French Gothic style, later blended with the Franciscan style. Fun fact: It was in this basilica that the writer Giovanni Boccaccio met his beloved “Fiammetta” in 1334.

• Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore (S. Giuseppe) is a remarkable example of Gothic architecture with Baroque influences. Originally founded in the 13th century, it has served as a major religious and cultural center. The church is known for its significant artworks. It also houses the tombs of several prominent figures, including members of the Aragonese royal family.

  

Beaches, parks & gardens:

• Spiaggia delle Monache (Posillipo): one of the few free beaches in Naples, located near the famous Palazzo Donn'Anna. It is named “delle Monache” because, in the past, it was where the nuns from the nearby convent used to bathe. Access to the beach is allowed only by online reservation and is limited to a maximum of 400 people.

• La Gaiola (Posillipo): among the most beautiful beaches in the city, Gaiola is located within the Protected Marine Area of the Parco Sommerso di Gaiola. Access is free and allowed for 400 people per day, but only with an online reservation.

• Rocce Verdi (Posillipo): is part of Villa Fattorusso, which is right next to the bay. It is now renowned for its secluded charm and crystal-clear waters but also for kayak tours. Indeed, Baia delle Rocce Verdi is the perfect starting point to reach Gaiola.

• Lo Schiacchetiello (Bacoli): not a traditional beach but a stunning coastline of tuff rocks, where to enjoy the warm sun of Campi Flegrei. This inlet is located across the small island of Punta Pennata, separated from the mainland by an earthquake in the 60s. According to Greek mythology, Ulysses landed here, captivated by the beauty of the Flegrean coast. Later, Roman patricians built magnificent villas in the area, and a large port was created nearby to house the imperial fleet, known as the Classis Praetoria Misenensis.

• Real Bosco di Capodimonte: one of Naples' largest and most beautiful green spaces, offering a peaceful escape from the city. It was originally designed as a royal hunting reserve, and now serves as a public park.

• Cratere degli Astroni (Pozzuoli): not far from the center of Naples, lies the WWF Nature Reserve Cratere degli Astroni, the crater of an extinct volcano. It was formed by seven eruptions between 4,100/3,800 years ago and is a beautiful example of how diverse flora and fauna can thrive after a natural disaster.

• Parco Villa Floridiana (Vomero): Villa Floridiana was part of an estate gifted by Ferdinand I of Bourbon to his wife, Lucia Migliaccio, who made it her summer residence. It was named in honor of her title, Duchess of Floridia. The estate spanned from Vomero down to the Riviera di Chiaia. The villa, built in the 19th century in a neoclassical style, was the result of a renovation. The park is designed in an English garden style, with pathways and groves facing the gulf. Amidst the park’s dense vegetation, next to caves that once housed exotic animals, there is a charming open-air theater called the “Teatro della Verzura”.

• Parco Virgiliano (Posillipo) is perched on a cliff overlooking the sea. It spans 7 hectares and offers one of the best views of the Gulf of Naples, stretching from Nisida to Capri. It's a peaceful escape from the city, with terraced paths ideal for leisurely walks and sunsets. It’s also a favorite among locals for jogging or just chilling with friends.

  

Places of interest:

Typical lieu where to find and feel the real Neapolitan charme.

• Murales Maradona (Q.ri Spagnoli): one of the places held dearly in every Neapolitan’s heart is Maradona. He’s not just an icon; his influence was so profound that he is almost considered a saint. If you feel like exploring, make a quick stop at Vico Totò nearby. Totò is another symbol of Neapolitan heritage.

• Madonna con Pistola (S. Lorenzo): Banksy's only known work in Italy. This mural reflects the city's reputation as a bastion of both devout Catholicism and gun crime.

• Palazzo dello Spagnolo (Rione Sanità) is a rococo slash late-baroque-style palace in Rione Sanità, popular for its elaborate and picturesque staircase.

• Acquafrescaio (S. Ferdinando): Neapolitan food isn’t exactly light, but don’t worry, Acquafrescaio has your back. Head to their stand and try their magic drink—water, lemon, and baking soda—to give your digestion a little boost.

• Toledo Metro Station is the underground gem known for its incredible design. Opened in 2012, it features colorful mosaics. The escalators are a highlight, with dramatic views that feel more like an art installation than a typical metro station.

• Chiaia Metro Station is the latest addition to the city’s transit system, designed by Neapolitan architect Uberto Siola with artistic contributions by British filmmaker Peter Greenaway, who created a dreamlike journey. Travelers are welcomed by a large blue statue of Jupiter with twenty-four arms. A white staircase features a verse from Ovid, leading to replicas of classical statues. As the staircase shifts to green, it represents Ceres, the goddess of agriculture. Visitors then enter an octagonal ochre area where Greenaway depicts Persephone with six pomegranates, before reaching the red platform symbolizing Hades, with three hundred painted eyes.

• Via dei Presepi is a charming alley in Naples known for its beautiful handmade nativity scenes aka presepi, where artisans have been creating these figures for centuries. The tradition began in the 18th century, initially focusing on religious themes. Over time, artists started to include local culture, adding figures of famous Neapolitans and everyday characters. During the Xmas, the street comes alive with colorful stalls selling a variety of nativity figures and funny decorations.

• Palazzo Venezia (S. Giuseppe): free entrance. As you go up to the upper floor, you are transported to another time, inside a 16th-century palace. Before accessing the true gem of this place: a stunning rooftop garden with a bar.

  

Hangout spots:

Places where to hang out either on your own or with your friends. Like, squares, where to play cards, clubs or even multipurpose spaces.

• Vesuvius Soul Records (S. Giuseppe): vibey record store and music label specialized in electronic music. Its’ also a street bar where the owners host occasional events.

• Piazzetta Giulio Rodinò (Chiaia) is a charming square, known for its lively atmosphere. The square features a mix of residential buildings and bars, making it a great spot for a coffee break or an aperitivo in places like Salumeria Alcolica.

• Lungomare is the vibrant waterfront of Naples with stunning views of the sea and Mount Vesuvius. The promenade is lined with cafes, bars, and gelaterias, making it a great spot for a casual hangout. At night, the area comes alive with a lively yet laid-back atmosphere. Locals, especially young people, love to gather here to chill, watch sunsets, and spend evenings with friends.

• Ennò (S. Lorenzo): welcoming spot where you can enjoy aperitivo with cocktails at fair prices. It's a great place to feel at home and spend relaxing evenings with friends. You can suggest your own songs, and they organize music nights and stand-up comedy too.

• Tappò Tapas Bar (S. Giuseppe): neighborhood bar where you can enjoy a craft beer and a top-notch charcuterie board. Perfect for chilling between a game of cards and a round of darts!

• Spazi Volta (Avvocata): under the same roof, there are three spaces: a bakery, a bistro serving delicious food, and a Premium bar, all connected by the fil rouge of love and culture for local products. It’s a place inspired by English-style bars, where you can spend hours. How long you stay is up to you—whether it's just for a takeaway meal, a lunch, an aperitif, or even a dance at the Basement bar.

• Giardino Liberato di Materdei (Avvocata): an ancient monastery, converted into a multifunctional center. It is managed by a collective who, by networking, contribute to the realization of projects and social activities of all kinds.

• Buco Pertuso - Public House (S. Lorenzo): informal bar with cool people, where drinks are cheap and the vibes are immaculate. It's the classic place where to drink with friends or make new ones.

• The Belliner (Avvocata): located in the historic center, inside the Bellini Theater of Naples, Belliner is a beautiful bar worthy of the location that hosts it. Open from breakfast to aperitif hours, during which they organize musical evenings.

Stores:

Shops of any sort, including perfumes, skincare, food, wines. Really, anything.

• PEZZE (Torre del Greco) is a vintage store that isn’t exactly in the city center, however in only 30 minutes you can travel in time and find the coolest pieces out there.

• L’Orto va in città (S. Giuseppe): the place to be if you want to experience the true flavors of the area. It’s a grocer that offers seasonal fruit from ethical, sustainable, and fair producers. The small shop also features a selection of natural wines from the region.

• Retrophilia (S. Giuseppe): This shop is in Via Mezzocannone, the street where you can find an array of vintage stores. The rich collection of luxury items, along with sister shop HEM, are the La Mecca for designers looking for an inspo.

• Casa Cometa (Quartieri Spagnoli): at Terry’s shop you can find everything from colorful ceramic plates to crazy ex-votos (heart-shaped devotional objects), even candles shaped like Saints!

• Libreria Tamu (S. Giuseppe), founded in 2020 in Naples, it offers a selection of books focused on postcolonial or feminist thoughts, and new ecologies, published by the indie house Tamu Edizioni. It serves as a space for discussion and debate on topics related to the Mediterranean, the Middle East, and other regions of the Global South.

• RIOT (Vomero) is a concept store on three levels: -1 for the clothes, ground floor for a nice coffee and 1 level for an area dedicated to the expo & relax.

• Chiaja Vintage (Chiaia) is where you should head to if you’re eclectic and in need of a new bag.

• Libreria Dante & Descartes (S. Gennaro): booksellers that are always ready to recommend the perfect book to read. The family also runs a small publishing house aiming to bring an ever-changing selection to readers. They also host pop-ups in unique locations.

• Kiphy Saponi (S. Lorenzo): shop selling soaps made by using a particular method to preserve the properties of the natural ingredients. They’re made of biodegradable oils with spices and special flowers.

• Tobia (Frattamaggiore): a vintage store with a cool and diversified selection, from high end to simple garments.

• In Casa (S. Lorenzo): Paboy Bojang, an artisan from Gambia, now lives in Naples after seeking asylum. He learned the craft of sewing at 13 in his uncle’s shop. During the pandemic, he started “In Casa by Paboy”, a small business of handmade pillows and home décor. Everything is made in-house by Paboy and a talented team of migrant workers.

• Gay Odin (S. Giuseppe): Naples' chocolate-making tradition is renowned in Italy. Gay Odin is one of the most famous, known not only for their delicious chocolate—especially the famous cioccolato foresta—but also for the tasty ice creams.

• Omega Gloves (Rione Sanità): family-run glove manufacturers, deemed to make the best leather gloves in the world since the 19th century!

  

  

My absolute favourites:

The Mount Olympus of places in Naples. The best of the best. Those spots that I cherish deeply and where I always come back.

• Poppella (Rione Sanità) is famous for two things: the “fiocco di neve”—a choux pastry filled with whipped sheep ricotta chantilly that tastes like heaven—and heartwarming taralli available at their Antico Tarallificio. If you swing by, make sure to try the pagnottiello, a sandwich made with pizza dough instead of bread. It’s a must-try!

• Museo Cappella Sansevero (S. Giuseppe): if you studied art history in school, you likely know about the Veiled Christ, located at the Cappella Sansevero. Seeing it in person is truly astonishing; you can't help but be captivated by such chef d’oeuvre. The Veiled Christ is a carved marble sculpture created from a single block of white marble by the artist Giuseppe Sanmartino in 1753.

• Mimì alla Ferrovia (S. Lorenzo): a beloved and historic trattoria known for its traditional cuisine with a twist. Established in 1949, it has earned a reputation for its authentic dishes and warm, welcoming atmosphere. One of its standout features is the impressive list of natural wines, carefully selected to complement the rich, flavorful menu.

• Museo Donnaregina - Madre (S. Lorenzo): one of my favorite contemporary art museums, it's a must-visit not only for its exhibitions but also for its quirky architecture. Be sure to stop by the rooftop for an additional perspective.

• Alimentari Coscia (S. Giuseppe): a standout spot for anyone interested in high-quality local products. It has a curated selection of artisanal and traditional sandwiches, rich with flavors of the region. One of its highlights is the impressive range of natural wines from the area, which offers a unique taste of the local viticulture.

• Gluu (S. Giuseppe): winery in a hip area with an insane (and freaky) wine selection!

• Salumeria Malinconico (Avvocata): serving the best panini since 1890. Try the cicoli & ricotta, a traditional Neapolitan dish made with cicoli, which are crispy pork rinds, and fresh ricotta cheese.

• Attanasio Antico Forno della Sfogliatella (S. Lorenzo): if you don’t know what a sfogliatella is, you’re missing out on a heavenly experience, and Attanasio is the place to start. Founded in 1930, F.lli Attanasio has been serving up tradition in dessert form. Here, you’ll find the two original types of sfogliatelle: the Riccia, a warm, flaky pastry filled with ricotta and candied citrus, topped with a sprinkle of powdered sugar, and the Liscia, which is similar but made with a smoother pastry.

• Artemisia Domus Giardino (S. Ferdinando): a boutique hotel in a beautiful historic building near the waterfront, offering a bar and restaurant worth visiting even if you're not staying there. It also features a wellness center.

• Sustanza (Avvocata): in the Galleria Principe di Napoli, you walk through the 19th-century door and feel like you’ve stepped into a Fitzgerald novel. Many of the original furnishings from that era have been restored by Eugenio Tibaldi, who also designed custom pieces inspired by Art Deco. It’s a fascinating world that transports you back to the days of 20th-century café chantants, when this place was the center of Naples' social scene and the most Parisian city in Italy. Here, you can enjoy cocktails in a library filled with 1,800 volumes that you can browse for free, and then head to the restaurant upstairs. The dishes are inspired by Mediterranean and North African traditions, featuring fermentation and interesting grilling techniques.

• Antica Pizzeria Di Matteo (S. Lorenzo) is where all your frying dreams come true. Here, you'll find arancini, crocchè—a cheesy mashed potato nugget—and frittatine di pasta, some of the finest you'll ever taste. These traditional appetizers are made from leftover spaghetti, dipped in batter, and deep-fried.

• Raimondo Spirito Artigiano (S. Giuseppe): no shelves filled with famous brands, just homemade spirits and custom drinks. When you step into Raimondo, you’ll see a row of bottles without labels. The menu changes every three months with the seasons, featuring 4-5 signature drinks along with all the classic cocktails, always made with their own bases. Or you can chat with the bartender, tell him what you’re in the mood for, and let him take care of the rest.

• Cibi Cotti "Nonna Anna" (Chiaia): one of the best and most traditional gastronomia (delicatessen) in Naples. Here, you’ll find her preparing the freshest and most genuine food available, just as she has been doing for years.